Even with all the new releases, and new product variations and enhancements, I've found more and more collections less appealing. The anticipation from press releases and blogger buzz and message board frenzies often exceed the real thing. So it made me wonder - is this simply because beauty addicts like us are a different breed of customer? Or are have companies really dropped the ball in meeting the customer's needs?
Do we have too much stuff? Does this make it more difficult for cosmetic companies to innovate? I've worked retail before so I know first hand that customers can be extremely difficult, rude, ridiculous and unreasonable. While I've found this is not the majority, a few bad apples definitely ruin the bunch and in the past I dreaded the Christmas Holiday season because customers always want things right now their way and often times want exceptions made for them that aren't always reasonable or fair.
For me, I've always liked MAC's neutral collections (D'Bohemia, N Collection, Skinflicks), yet the newest neutral collections they released were too neutral for my taste. I found the same with Laura Mercier's Polished Collection. I normally love and adore neutrals in nudes and browns. While I did find 2 items that I liked enough to purchase, I found the rest too bland and too neutral. The most recent Bobbi Brown Cabana Corals collection was probably one that I was most looking forward to, yet I found it too bright and too orange/coral (more on this soon).
I realize everyone has different tastes. I personally loved Bobbi Brown's last Nude Collection and I know a lot of women didn't find it appealing at all.
I know most companies strive to achieve brand loyalty from customers. Perhaps there are a lot of women out there who are brand loyal. I just don't know of any other than my mother and my friend's mother who are loyal to Estee Lauder for life. For me there isn't just 1 line that will meet all my beauty and skincare needs.
But what is it that we want and need? I personally would like to see:
- More wearable looks on real women with each collection. Preferably 3 looks on different women.
- Ideas on how to incorporate my current products with new products.
- Inspirational ideas on how to transform a day look to a night look.
- I'd like more ideas on how to coordinate makeup with certain colors of clothes (I typically pick out my clothes for the day first, then pick the makeup to use with it).
- Better shopping incentives and GWPs.
- More knowledgeable sales associates and better training for consistency among brands regardless of location or store.
While I don't always like being pressured to buy something from a sales associate, I do feel like they should do some of the leg work in telling me about something new. I'd say about 90% of the time, I go into the store knowing what I want to buy and the sales associate has little to do with completing that actual sale. Sometimes I feel like I'm the easiest customer because they don't need to convince me to buy something and most of the time I am able to tell them what's coming out before they even know about it and also tell them if their competitor store already has it.
This is contrasted to my own personal experience in retail where I had to be knowledgeable about all the product features, competitor products, benefits, customer feedback and my own personal experience in order to make a sale.
Perhaps I am really a difficult customer who is way too obsessed with shopping and makeup. In general I feel like I am the one who meets my own needs. I'm taking a Strategic Branding class this semester which should be interesting. I realize Luxury Goods are a whole different market than most of the brands I'll be studying this semester.
I'd love to hear from you! Do you feel your needs are being met?
Interesting, thought-provoking post - I call yours "the thinking woman's beauty blog."
ReplyDeletePossibly executives in the beauty industry resemble the dreaded "garmentos" in the fashion world? In other words, so short term profit driven that they are also too short-sighted to perceive and fill real market demands.
I agree with all of the points you raise, especially your ideas on marketing beauty products.
I sometimes feel that my intelligence is being insulted by a lot of the cosmetics and fashion that I see.
My favorite Chanel cosmetics SA phoned recently to ask if I wanted to come in for an event featuring stick-on decals depicting Chanel chains, etc. When I laughed and said no, he ruefully laughed too.
This maybe tangential to the questions you raised but here goes:
ReplyDelete1. Like you, I am ready for "real makeup on/for real women".
2. I am tired of the shiny/frosty trend in makeup. Everything released these days is shinier and frostier than the previous collection(s).
3. I am tired of makeup companies raising prices for their already over-priced products.
i definitely agree on a lot of points that you said.
ReplyDeletei used to buy a lot of stuff from MAs and in the end, i never really knew how to use the items properly. why? because the associate just wants to sell you the item and be done with it. when you go back to the same MA, they forgot your name and try to sell you some other stuff. and so on...
with that being said. i am a difficult customer. i also work retail so i know the difference between the associate that wants to push everything on you, and not really teaching you how the product works, etc.
from all the interactions i've had and going to all the counters, i only have 2 MAs that i'm loyal to. it's taken a LONG time for me to weed out the 99% of rude, pushy, crappy MAs.
Kristy from Giorgio Armani. i can walk up to her, and she already knows what I own. whatever stuff i'm interested in, she suggests what it's for and if it's good for me. she actually suggests dupes of the item if it's a dupeable item. she's honest if the item won't look good on me.
She sometimes sits me down (if it's not too busy) and shows me how the item is supposed to work and with what tools. she has me hold a mirror so i can see what she's doing and she explains how she does it (on my face). NEVER has she pushed to sell a product, and that's what I love about her. i wish more people visited or ordered from her.
i generally like to use a few brands, but thanks to Kristy, i'm slowly becoming more and more of a GA user. why? because i hate wasting my time trying to tell an associate, "but i'm really not interested in xyz". Kristy knows what works for me and what doesn't. luckily for me, i usually end up what i really need. woot !
my other MA is the same way, but i rarely see her because she's in virginia. she happens to be the counter manager at shu uemura at pentagon city.
Great post and I second much of what you say! I *love* makeup, but lately I am feeling like I already have far more than I need and so I am trying to be far more selective in my purchases. I also feel like I know more about products and releases than most MAs at the counters and they do really push items on me (all of which makes me dread going to the counter and leads me to buy much more online). I love makeup, so I think it is a shame that I am nervous to go to makeup counters - it should be one of the funnest places for me, but sadly, it isn't.
ReplyDeleteI do tend to fall for LE items, but I am starting to resent this sales ploy. What I really want is LE packaging for regular items that is designed to be reused. For example, I just bought the new Dior dentelle highlighting powder. The compact is beautiful, but I have lots of highlighters already (didn't need a new one) and it's going to be such a shame when I use this one up - I'd love to refill it (either with more highlighter or with some other powder product). But this is just one example.
I notice that many Asian brands are much better about selling refills and cases separately and I think this is brilliant (and so much better for the environment). One of my favorite brands is Paul & Joe and I love how I can switch lipsticks into different holders from the sparkles collections and the regular packaging and vice versa. I also buy Shiseido powder foundations and really appreciate being able to buy refills separately.
I would also love to see more tips on applying makeup, seeing before/after pics of makeup on actual customers, different looks on actual customers, etc., rather than airbrushed photos of models where they might not have even used the featured products to achieve the look.
Thanks for the insightful post and wonderful blog - I love reading it!
I think about this a lot. Some of my "thinks" are:
ReplyDelete1. I am really tired of companies trying to sell me on how this year's nude is Oh So Different from last year's nude. Really -- not so different.
2. While there are some spring collections out that really make sense to me in terms of the colors and how they go together to create a particular statement, there are some other ones that seem like the colors have been randomly selected via pin-the-tail-on-the-color wheel. (NARS, I'm looking at you.)
3. Some lines don't seem to produce collections that fit their customer very well. I don't know anyone who is a regular Lancome user who is going to go for deep teal eyeshadow and eyeliner. (Not to mention that those colors do not go with their pale pinks at all!)
4. What is the deal with an eyeshadow palette with five shades that make sense and then one totally random one? I'm thinking of one of the spring Smashbox palettes -- who over the age of 16 wears hot pink eyeshadow?
5. I do not live in New York City. Please stop designing collections that can only be worn in New York City at the trendiest of all possible nightclubs. These looks are going to be out of style before the party's even over.
6. Please sell me less product for less money. Cosmetic products are way too big -- the fact that hitting pan on an eyeshadow or blush is a momentous event indicates that we are being sold far more than we will ever use. I love Tarte cheek stains, but will never use up a whole one, ever. I'd much rather buy half as much for half the money.
Er, sorry for the rant. ;)
I'll buy a new product if there has been a significant improvement in the formula or ingredients. For example, it seems like loose powders have dramatically improved in the past year or two. There seem to be some new lipstick formulas as well that are worth looking into.
ReplyDeleteBut the LE, buy a completely new round of blush, eye shadow, lipstick because we say it's new, seems outdated to me. For an industry that thrives on new ideas, they are slow to pick up on the "quality over quantity" thing. And that many of us are sick of having enormous stashes of makeup that gets used twice and then is put away.
The Laura Mercier counter has been one place where I have received excellent instruction on how to use their products. But the MA/SA who is honestly looking to help you look your best without pushing unnecessary products is a rare bird.
Loved, loved, loved this post!
ReplyDeleteI too have worked behind the counters and I'm a dedicated cosmetics consumer. In an industry where being "cutting-edge" is a goal--not many are actually keeping up. Its more and more about any kind of sales increase RIGHT THEN, than it is about an inspiring, satisfying experience at the counters. Both customers and sales associates are suffering bc of this.
I'm not sure about what the answer is but I do know I feel the deep need for change in the cosmetics industry on both ends of the spectrum.
Also, I completely agree with the poster who commented on a desire for less product for less money! That would keep things fresh and exciting for the consumer and keep a steadier flow of profit for the distributors. And maybe not even all products--let's say keep foundations and powders in a larger size bc they are used everyday but downsize on eyeshadows and lipsticks. I know I would be thrilled if that ever happened!
The beauty addict community is a special breed and I try to remember that when purchasing makeup. Companies are meeting the requirements for most of their consumers, and remember we are not "most".
ReplyDeleteI am in my thirties, and have been wearing and purchasing makeup for a long time, and my collection is pale in comparison to yours. With all due respect intended, I don't think you are an average consumer. From the collection pics you display, you have a beautiful assortment of products and if you still can't find the perfect taupe out of the 40 lovely ones you already have then the issue rests with you and not the Brand.
I used to own every nude pink full coverage lipstick on the high end market, but still frantically searching for something new. Something was always "wrong", but in reality my search had to do with me not the lipstick.
I still love the art of cosmetics but there is something to be said that I can now appreciate the pink nude lipsticks that I own. The chronic need to covet more has vanquished with age.
I really love these kinds of posts from you - always well articulated and though-provoking and I think that it's very important for us "beauty addicts" to reflect on our habit every now and again.
ReplyDeleteI've never quite been sucked into the LE craze of MAC because I don't find many of their releases terribly amazing (though I did spend a LOT on Hello Kitty, my first big launch, and still regret not getting a few items) but more and more I'm getting tired of LE releases from all brands. I think it's exhausting just to keep up with it all, not to mention terribly financially draining. Plus, there are plenty of wonderful permanent products from so many different lines to choose from as it is!
In general I consider myself a pretty difficult customer, not ... in a retail sense (I've worked retail too, and I agree, some customers are just insane) but in terms of finding products that really work for me as it seems what works amazingly for most women falls short of my expectations (I have to layer two eye primers, my lips hate everything, I'm allergic to chemical sunscreen ingredients, etc). But I have to say, after a few years due diligence, I've been able to find many amazing HG products, even for me!
Sadly, I haven't had much help from makeup artists or sales associates as far as finding those HGs. I've had to do much of the research and legwork on my own. I do love most of the SAs at my local Sephora (and two in particular who know me by my first name LOL) and they've primarily helped me out with skincare concerns... and even then I buy my cleanser from an Etsy etailer and I mix up my own moisturizer. Plus, they know full well I'm up on all the latest news and usually in to see if they have new stuff to swatch so they usually leave me to myself to cover my arms in blush and eyeshadow lol.
For color cosmetics, I've had pretty good luck with one awesome MAC MA at my Nordstroms (and I have to give her credit for introducing me to MAC Cremesheens and thus wearing lipstick in general even though it's not my favorite formula anymore). I've also had pretty good luck with most of the Nordstrom's MAs in general. I admit, like you, I usually know what product I'm looking for already though and they just have to try a color or two on me. For some reason I'm kind of afraid of going in and asking blindly for recommendations though since I'm a bit intimidated by the counters LOL.
BTW - I responded to your comment on my last NOTD post. In short though, wrapping the tips of my nails and an extra layer of regular topcoat under the quick dry topcoat usually gets me 5-6 days with minimal tipwear and chips on the 7th day. I kind of discovered that on accident since I always seal my nail art with a a thickish coat of regular topcoat. It works super - I can't remember the last time I lost a rhinestone before I was ready to take it off. In the same vein, a coat or two extra of glitter polish makes a manicure virtually indestructible! HTH!
I think that the major cosmetic lines have gotten lazy, and churn out the same airbrushed images and the same collections over and over again. Partly, we have ourselves to blame, as MAC et al know that if they regurgitate the same colours, give it a cute theme and make it LE it'll sell out.
ReplyDeleteThere are a few lines that genuinely interest and excite me at the moment. I really like the simplicity and purity of rms beauty (and Rosemary Swift has a fantastic eye for colour), Ellis Faas' concept is stunning (wish the containers were better at dispensing though.) I also find the service and guidance better at brands like Suqqu (and their collections have a much more coherent theme.) The Suqqu Japan website gives suggestions on how to combine the collections, and the events are excellent.
So, I think there are brands out there innovating/going the extra mile, but you do have to hunt for them.
I agree with your list. I must also say that I am getting bored of seeing the same products over and over. Take all the buzz around the Michael Korrs for EL collection. A peach blush, a pink blush, champagne, brown and grey eyeshadows. Seriously? Haven't we seen that a million times?
ReplyDeleteAnd of course, a lot of sales associates aren't well trained or particularly gifted with makeup, at least in my area, and I think for a lot of women who aren't into makeup videos and blogs, these SA are the only source of advice and they can't learn much from them.
My issue is that a lot of these companies don't feature darker skinned beauties. They don't need to be super dark, but medium deep is nice. A lot of darker skinned women out there are either afraid to try color and such, and have no one to show them what to do. Not a lot of MA's out there actually even know what to do with darker skinned women. At least in my experience, anyways. That's why I have a blog. I'm by no means an expert, but I hope to help people along the way to my becoming better.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this post, Lina. Thoughtful and insightful!
ReplyDeleteMy 2 cents: I currently go to school in Eastern Canada, where if there is any luxury brand make-up available at all, it will only be found at one single department store. Luckily, I am able to frequent that store as often as I like and am known on a first-name basis. That being said, it took a while to get to that point. I feel pretty grateful to have one Bobbi Brown MA/SA who is able to cross-sell many brands (it's how this small department store works)...he's honest, forthright and never pushes me into a sale. My biggest gripe about cosmetics is that I, much like you, seek out what I'm looking for and also feel like I'm the easiest customer. Every time I set foot in that store, it's with purpose and money in hand. There are many instances where I've inquired about an upcoming collection and the MAs are sort of in the dark.. it's moderately frustrating, but really, it just gives me more time to weigh my options and decide whether or not I truly *need* that new lipstick/gloss/eyeshadow/blush, etc. I fully agree with one of the previous comments; smaller quantity for lower price would be brilliant.
Like anonymous 3, I am tired of the LE trend. While at first, a couple years ago, it helped build hype, now the LE trend is going against brand loyalty. I found a product I loved that I had to go on evilbay to find backups of. Now I read makeup blogs to find out what ISN'T LE so that I can avoid even trying those products. I won't even buy MAC now except for old standards that have been around ten years. I wish sales associates and counter MUAs would also have more information about what is or isn't LE.
ReplyDeletei understand about the ever-long pursuit for the perfect colour & it's to do with the people we are, as well as perhaps making a living out of this pursuit.
ReplyDeletei agree that LE, refillable packaging is the way forward. refills should also be made in a variety of sizes. i use vintage compacts & am always looking for the right size refill, but i also love new compacts. i use a mr. makeup lipstick palette that i fill from lipsticks & it would be great if you could buy itsy bitsy pots, maybe in a pick 'n' mix format. i am a sucker for packaging & am always sorry to see my favourite cases thrown out & am upset by the waste. MAC allows you to recycle, but that just isn't really good enough. i think most items should be available in various forms or sizes.
every colour is basically a LE anyway. i've lost count of fave products that have been discontinued. either i'm way too cult beauty for my own good or the only semi-permanent products will be the colours/prods of the masses only. MAC's glam & ruby woo have been available for aeons, but i have gotten older & moved on & rarely wear this kind of lip anymore. red lips & black liner will & should always be available, but perhaps companies should consider cult divisions that keep certain "discontinued" prods for sale in limited amounts for a higher price to cover production or via special membership. i might shop more via this than any other & i would certainly treasure these items & do w/less that just bridge the gap left by my fave discontinued item.
i am also dismayed that most companies use airbrushed models with false eyelashes to advertise mascara in colours that have been edited to extreme brightness or custom mixed. it's unreal & misrepresents the brand. most makeup artists mix special colours for shoots out of several colours in the line or using (gasp!) other cult prods from different lines w/current season items from the named brand. face make up is usually mixed; powders, blushers, bronzers & shadows are mixed or combined & my favourite lip colours of the season, seem to be the mixing of the two most vibrant lip colours with a non current lip liner. while all of these looks are inspirational eye candy & not useful for anyone but models, actresses & the youngest, gorgeous things on a big night out, i think all of the information of the colours & prods used should be included so they can be recreated. it's plain misleading to list only colours that the brand wants to push & think are close enough to match. everyone should use artist's palettes & mix their own LE colours anyway & w/the availability of more pigment pots (thank you, MAC), the possibilities are endless.
ReplyDeleteprods should be more multi tasking. remember the breakthrough of moisturiser that contained small amounts of self-tanner? the same can go for most products. makeup should have moisturising & anti-aging qualities as options, especially lipsticks & glosses. i want a super moisturising, anti aging lip cream with colour. remedie has one, but the colours are limited & i'm afraid it isn't uber moisturizing or long lasting. i find MAC's lip conditioners good, but for it wthe inclusion of sunscreen, which i am allergic to, so can't wear daily.
the inclusion of sunscreens seem to be pervasive, & yet true moisturiser is lacking in most things. mineral lines have natural sunscreen that's hypo-allergenic & yet are cakey & sometimes drying. i'd so much rather do without sunscreen & feel truly hydrated & smoothed. all my fave moisturisers (lip, face, hands & tints), seem to have sunscreen & it's getting very hard to find product without, lately. i usually have to layer products with the first layer acting as a barrier to the drying effect of whatever's on top!
retail's in a sorry state & there are less true MA's & more dodgy sales people that care less about the brand & customer & more about numbers. they simply don't get that they'll sell more if they take a little pride & don't insult us. we may be clueless or more clued up than they are & it takes a perceptive, well mannered, non-aggressive approach to find out which kind of consumer we may be. ultimately, it's the brand's responsibility to inspire, train & appropriately reward their reps so that they care. this always trickles down to the consumer & results in sales, buzz & brand loyalty. every brand read blogs like these & keep an eye on social media to hear what is being said, it's free marketing gold.
thanks so much for your very thought provoking post!
Ladies - thank you so much for your insightful comments! I really appreciate the time you all took to share your thoughts with me!
ReplyDeleteHugs and kisses :)
I dont think i am a difficult client at all, but i have lately become extremely un-impressed with makeup and sales tactics.
ReplyDeleteI always go in knowing exactly what i want to buy but also being open to possibly getting more items or something slightly diffrent that will fulfil my needs. However this almost never happens. I have never had some one try to sell me anything, and on several occasions i had to clarify the diffrence between items (as in creme shadows vs. liners). While i do not expect them to know everything about there lines i would like some accountability on there part.
I also agree with a previous comment that we need less shimmer, more real life looks and on real life people. Its great that these sparkly brights look good on models, but i am not a model, and i have a job that does not require blue shadow nor would it allow it, i would like to see more looks in line with what the average human could wear and pull off. And while they are at it why not show how to deal with droopy eyes or small eyes.
Late to the party, but very good post and love the comments. I was born with a lipstick tube in one hand and a mascara wand in the other and loved watching my grandmother make herself up. It's a luxury of being female to be able to indulge these desires. I love the transformation of make-up, but as time has gone on, my passion has faded and the true face of a female is become more beautiful to me. Make-up used to be a way for me to enter into this Siren I had desired to be, but now it's become more draining to keep up with trends, to find products that don't deliver, and to constantly feel like my desires are being preyed upon as a weakness by businesses looking to cash in on the fleeting sensuality make-up provides. Having worked in cosmetics, I've questioned my own integrity when a young girl asks me to erase her features and re-create her as someone entirely different, as opposed to helping her find the beauty in her own face.
ReplyDeleteI'd love to see the cosmetics industry open towards "realness" of beauty, less airbrushing, older models, less MU overall, and using the true products as opposed to concoctions only MU artists are privy to. I'm tired of the insatiable cravings for being someone different that surpass the fairy-tale transformation of MU.